Sri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu

The South India Tour

Two years on foot from Puri to Cape Comorin, curing a leper, recovering two lost books, converting whole provinces

South India, c. 1510-1512

Mahaprabhu as a wandering sannyasi — the form in which He walked to Rameshvaram and back.
Mahaprabhu as a wandering sannyasi — the form in which He walked to Rameshvaram and back.Wikimedia Commons (Indian Museum, Kolkata) · public domain

When Sri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu accepted sannyasa at Katwa He had intended to walk straight to Vrindavana, but His devotees turned Him toward Jagannatha Puri instead, and it was there, in the first months of 1510, that His life as a wandering mendicant actually began. Krishnadasa Kaviraja sets out the calendar carefully: He took sannyasa in the month of Magha, reached Puri in Phalguna and saw the Dola-yatra festival there, converted the great logician Sarvabhauma Bhattacharya in Chaitra, and at the beginning of Vaishakha announced that He was leaving on a tour of the south. The reason He gave was that He wished to search for His elder brother Vishvarupa, who had taken sannyasa years earlier and vanished into the south; the biographies note plainly that He already knew Vishvarupa had passed away, and that the search was a pretext for a preaching journey.

He wanted to travel alone, and said so, and the devotees would not have it. Nityananda Prabhu argued that a man whose two hands are permanently occupied in chanting and counting the holy names cannot also carry a waterpot and a change of cloth, and that when the Lord fell unconscious in ecstasy on the road there would be nobody to look after His belongings. The compromise was a simple, quiet brahmana named Krishnadasa, who would carry the waterpot and the garments and, as Nityananda put it, would not say a word. Sarvabhauma Bhattacharya sent four sets of cloth after Him and made one further request: that on the banks of the Godavari He should not fail to meet a government officer named Ramananda Raya, and should not dismiss him because he came of a family the brahmanas of Bengal would have called low. The devotees walked with Him as far as Alalanatha, and the Bhattacharya fainted at the roadside as He left; Krishnadasa Kaviraja records, without softening it, that the Lord did not turn round.

The method of the tour was established within the first days and never varied. He walked chanting Krishna's names aloud, and asked every person He passed to chant "Hari! Hari!" Those who did so followed Him for a while, and when He judged the moment right He embraced them and sent them home. The Chaitanya-charitamrita describes what happened next as a chain reaction: each person He had embraced went back to his own village chanting, laughing, weeping and dancing, and asked everyone he met to chant; those villagers in turn became devotees; visitors who came from neighbouring villages simply to look at this transformed man were transformed in the same way; and so, village by village, the practice spread far ahead of the Lord's own footsteps. The biographer's summary is that hundreds of thousands of people in the south became Vaishnavas without ever meeting Him, and he adds the frank observation that Chaitanya Mahaprabhu had not manifested this empowering potency in Nabadwip, but did so in the south.

At Kurma-kshetra, the temple of the tortoise incarnation on the Andhra coast, He was received by a Vedic brahmana named Kurma who washed His feet, fed Him, and then begged to be allowed to abandon his household and follow Him. The refusal that the Lord gave him has become one of the most quoted sentences in the whole tradition: stay at home, chant Krishna's name always, teach everyone you meet what Krishna teaches in the Bhagavad-gita and the Srimad-Bhagavatam, and in that way become a spiritual master and deliver this country. Krishnadasa Kaviraja explicitly states that this is not an isolated instruction but the pattern of the entire tour — that wherever the Lord took a meal, He gave His host the same charge before moving on. It is the charter under which Gaudiya Vaishnavism has always sent householders out to preach.

In the same village lived a brahmana named Vasudeva who had leprosy so advanced that his body was full of worms; the biographies record, as the mark of the man, that when a worm dropped from him he would pick it up and put it back rather than let it die. Hearing of the Lord's arrival he came the next morning to Kurma's house, found that He had already left, and collapsed in the road. Chaitanya Mahaprabhu turned back and embraced him. The accounts say that the disease and the distress left him together, that his body became beautiful, and that his first reaction was to worry that he would now become proud — for which the Lord's prescription was, again, constant chanting and constant preaching. From this episode He acquired one of His less familiar names, Vasudevamrita-prada, "He who gave nectar to Vasudeva."

Continuing south He visited the temple of Jiyada-Nrisimha and then came to the Godavari, where the sight of the river reminded Him of the Yamuna and the woods along its bank reminded Him of Vrindavana. There, at the bathing place near Vidyanagara, He met Ramananda Raya, then governor of the Godavari region on behalf of the king of Odisha. The conversations that followed over several evenings are the theological centre of the entire Chaitanya-charitamrita, and they are told in full on their own page; it is enough to say here that the tour's most consequential meeting happened barely a few weeks after it began, and that the Lord afterwards ordered Ramananda Raya to resign his post and come to Puri.

From the Godavari the route ran through an enormous number of temple towns — Mallikarjuna, Ahovala-Nrisimha, Siddhavata, Tirupati and Tirumala, Kanchi, Vriddhakola — and Krishnadasa Kaviraja admits at the outset of his account that he cannot record them in order and will simply list what he can. At Rangakshetra, the great Srirangam temple on an island in the Kaveri, the Lord was invited home by a Sri Vaishnava brahmana of the Ramanuja line named Venkata Bhatta, who pointed out that the four months of Chaturmasya had begun and that a wandering sannyasi was therefore obliged to stay put. The Lord stayed the whole four months. It is at Srirangam, too, that the tour produced its most charming episode: an illiterate brahmana who read the whole Bhagavad-gita aloud every day, mispronouncing it so badly that people laughed at him, and who wept as he read. Asked which passage moved him, he answered that he did not understand a word, but that while he read he saw Krishna sitting on the chariot with the reins in His hands, and could not look away. The Lord embraced him and told him he had understood the Gita correctly.

With his host Venkata Bhatta the Lord conducted a long, deliberately provocative argument, teasing him about why the goddess of fortune, who had performed austerities to enter the rasa dance, was never admitted to it while ordinary cowherd girls were. Venkata Bhatta, whose entire tradition held Narayana to be the supreme form of God, could not answer; the Lord finally told him that the joking had a purpose, and led him to the conclusion that Krishna in Vrindavana is the original and complete form of the Divine. The household included a boy who served the Lord throughout those four months. Krishnadasa Kaviraja does not name him — the reason, given elsewhere in the Chaitanya-charitamrita, is that when the author sought the blessings of the surviving Goswamis before beginning his book, this one gave his blessing on condition that his own name never appear in it. The boy was Gopala Bhatta, later Gopala Bhatta Goswami of Vrindavana, one of the Six Goswamis, installer of the Radharamana Deity and the compiler behind the Hari-bhakti-vilasa.

Beyond Srirangam the Lord went on to Rishabha Hill, where He met the elderly sannyasi Paramananda Puri, a godbrother of His own guru, and persuaded him to come to Puri; to southern Mathura, the modern Madurai, where a brahmana devoted to Ramachandra was starving himself to death out of grief that Sita had been touched by Ravana, and was consoled by the Lord's explanation — later confirmed to him from an old palm-leaf manuscript of the Kurma Purana that the Lord tracked down at Rameshvaram and carried back to him — that Ravana had abducted only an illusory form; and finally, past Kanyakumari, to Cape Comorin at the very tip of the peninsula. On the way back up the western side, at a settlement of Bhattatharis in Mallara-desa, His servant Krishnadasa was lured away and had to be physically retrieved, an incident that eventually cost the man his position in the Lord's service.

It was in the temple of Adi-keshava, on the banks of the Payasvini in the far south, that the tour produced its most lasting material result. Among a group of advanced devotees discussing spiritual subjects the Lord found a manuscript chapter of the Brahma-samhita, a text then effectively lost. Krishnadasa Kaviraja's judgement of it is unqualified: there is no scripture equal to it on the final conclusion, and it is essential among all Vaishnava literatures. The Lord had it copied and carried it with Him. Some months later, at Pandarpur in the Maratha country — where He also received the news, from Sri Ranga Puri, that the sannyasi Sankararanya who had attained perfection in that town was in fact His own elder brother Vishvarupa — He came upon a community of brahmanas who read daily from a book of devotional poetry called Krishna-karnamrita, by Bilvamangala Thakura. He had that copied too. The two manuscripts came back to Bengal and Odisha with Him, and the biographer calls them the two jewels He brought home; the first thing He did on reaching Vidyanagara again was to hand both to Ramananda Raya, who copied them.

The debates of the tour are compressed by the Chaitanya-charitamrita into a handful of summary verses. The chapter's opening verse describes the people of the south as strong as elephants but held in the jaws of the crocodiles of Buddhist, Jain and Mayavada philosophy, and the narrative that follows names logicians of the Nyaya school, followers of Jaimini's Mimamsa, Sankhya philosophers, yogis of Patanjali's system and the impersonalist followers of Shankaracharya as opponents whom He met and answered on their own ground before establishing devotion. One Buddhist episode is told at length: a learned teacher who came to argue the nine principles of his school, was defeated, and then attempted to poison the Lord by presenting untouchable food as sanctified offering — a plot that failed, and ended with the teacher's own disciples reviving him by chanting the names of Krishna into his ear until he chanted them himself. At Udupi, the seat of Madhvacharya, He questioned the head of the Tattvavadi school so respectfully that the man did not at first realise he was being examined, and then dismantled the position that the perfection of life is dedicating varnashrama duty to Krishna in order to obtain liberation, on the ground that pure devotees reject liberation itself.

The tour lasted roughly two years, and the Lord returned to Puri by much the same road, so that the villages He had converted saw Him a second time. Its consequences were out of all proportion to its length. Two lost books came back with Him and became foundational texts of a school that did not yet exist; a boy in a Srirangam household became one of its six great theologians; a governor on the Godavari became His most confidential associate; and an instruction given casually to a village brahmana over lunch became the standing order under which the movement has recruited ever since. Gaudiya Vaishnavas take from the South India tour the point that Chaitanya Mahaprabhu did not treat the chanting of the holy name as a folk practice for the unlettered while reserving argument for scholars. He did both, in the same journey, with the same equanimity — and left behind, as the biographer puts it, whole provinces where the only sound to be heard on the road was the name of Krishna.

Scriptural sources for this pastime

কৃষ্ণদাস’-নামে এই সরল ব্রাহ্মণ ।
ইঁহো সঙ্গে করি’ লহ, ধর নিবেদন ॥ ৩৯ ॥

‘kṛṣṇadāsa’-nāme ei sarala brāhmaṇa
iṅho saṅge kari’ laha, dhara nivedana

Word for word

kṛṣṇa-dāsa-nāme — named Kṛṣṇadāsa; ei — this; sarala — simple; brāhmaṇa — brāhmaṇa; iṅho — he; saṅge — with You; kari’ — accepting; laha — take; dhara — just catch; nivedana — the petition.

Śrī Nityānanda Prabhu continued, “Here is a simple brāhmaṇa named Kṛṣṇadāsa. Please accept him and take him with You. That is My request.

CC Madhya 7.39-40 Sri Caitanya-caritamrta

Nityananda Prabhu's request that the simple brahmana Krishnadasa be allowed to carry the Lord's waterpot and cloth on the tour.

যারে দেখ, তারে কহ ‘কৃষ্ণ’ উপদেশ ।
আমার আজ্ঞায় গুরু হঞা তার’ এই দেশ ॥ ১২৮ ॥

yāre dekha, tāre kaha ‘kṛṣṇa’-upadeśa
āmāra ājñāya guru hañā tāra’ ei deśa

Word for word

yāre — whomever; dekha — you meet; tāre — him; kaha — tell; kṛṣṇa-upadeśa — the instruction of the Bhagavad-gītā as it is spoken by the Lord or of Śrīmad-Bhāgavatam, which advises one to worship Śrī Kṛṣṇa; āmāra ājñāya — under My order; guru hañā — becoming a spiritual master; tāra’ — deliver; ei deśa — this country.

“Instruct everyone to follow the orders of Lord Śrī Kṛṣṇa as they are given in the Bhagavad-gītā and Śrīmad-Bhāgavatam. In this way become a spiritual master and try to liberate everyone in this land.”

CC Madhya 7.128 Sri Caitanya-caritamrta

The instruction given to the brahmana Kurma — teach what Krishna teaches and become a guru where you are. The charter verse for householder preaching.

সেই যাই’ গ্রামের লোক বৈষ্ণব করয় ।
অন্যগ্ৰামী আসি’ তাঁরে দেখি’ বৈষ্ণব হয় ॥ ১০৩ ॥

sei yāi’ grāmera loka vaiṣṇava karaya
anya-grāmī āsi’ tāṅre dekhi’ vaiṣṇava haya

Word for word

sei — that Vaiṣṇava; yāi’ — going to his own village; grāmera loka — all the people of the village; vaiṣṇava — devotees; karaya — makes; anya-grāmī — inhabitants from different villages; āsi’ — coming there; tāṅre dekhi’ — by seeing him; vaiṣṇava haya — become devotees.

When each of these newly empowered individuals returned to his own village, he also converted the villagers into devotees. And when others came from different villages to see him, they were also converted.

CC Madhya 7.103-104 Sri Caitanya-caritamrta

The chain reaction by which empowered villagers converted their own villages, which the biographer gives as the mechanism of the whole tour.

প্রভু-স্পর্শে দুঃখ-সঙ্গে কুষ্ঠ দূরে গেল ।
আনন্দ সহিতে অঙ্গ সুন্দর হইল ॥ ১৪১ ॥

prabhu-sparśe duḥkha-saṅge kuṣṭha dūre gela
ānanda sahite aṅga sundara ha-ila

Word for word

prabhu-sparśe — by the touch of Śrī Caitanya Mahāprabhu; duḥkha-saṅge — along with his unhappiness; kuṣṭha — the infection of leprosy; dūre — to a distant place; gela — went; ānanda sahite — with great pleasure; aṅga — whole body; sundara — beautiful; ha-ila — became.

When Śrī Caitanya Mahāprabhu touched him, both the leprosy and his distress went to a distant place. Indeed, Vāsudeva’s body became very beautiful, to his great happiness.

CC Madhya 7.141 and 7.150 Sri Caitanya-caritamrta

The curing of the leper brahmana Vasudeva and the name Vasudevamrita-prada that the Lord received from it.

কিবা বিপ্র, কিবা ন্যাসী, শূদ্র কেনে নয় ।
যেই কৃষ্ণতত্ত্ববেত্তা, সেই ‘গুরু’ হয় ॥ ১২৮ ॥

kibā vipra, kibā nyāsī, śūdra kene naya
yei kṛṣṇa-tattva-vettā, sei ‘guru’ haya

Word for word

kibā — whether; vipra — a brāhmaṇa; kibā — whether; nyāsī — a sannyāsī; śūdra — a śūdra; kene — why; naya — not; yei — anyone who; kṛṣṇa-tattva-vettā — a knower of the science of Kṛṣṇa; sei — that person; guru — the spiritual master; haya — is.

“Whether one is a brāhmaṇa, a sannyāsī or a śūdra — regardless of what he is — he can become a spiritual master if he knows the science of Kṛṣṇa.”

CC Madhya 8.128 Sri Caitanya-caritamrta

The verse on qualification for guru irrespective of birth, spoken during this tour on the banks of the Godavari.

নানামতগ্রাহগ্রস্তান্ দাক্ষিণাত্যজনদ্বিপান্ ।
কৃপারিণা বিমুচ্যৈতান্ গৌরশ্চক্রে স বৈষ্ণবান্ ॥ ১ ॥

nānā-mata-grāha-grastān
dākṣiṇātya-jana-dvipān
kṛpāriṇā vimucyaitān
gauraś cakre sa vaiṣṇavān

Word for word

nānā-mata — by various philosophies; grāha — like crocodiles; grastān — captured; dākṣiṇātya-jana — the inhabitants of South India; dvipān — like elephants; kṛpā-ariṇā — by His disc of mercy; vimucya — liberating; etān — all these; gauraḥ — Śrī Caitanya Mahāprabhu; cakre — converted; saḥ — He; vaiṣṇavān — to the Vaiṣṇava cult.

Lord Śrī Caitanya Mahāprabhu converted the inhabitants of South India. These people were as strong as elephants, but they were in the clutches of the crocodiles of various philosophies, such as the Buddhist, Jain and Māyāvāda philosophies. With His disc of mercy the Lord delivered them all by converting them into Vaiṣṇavas, devotees of the Lord.

CC Madhya 9.1 Sri Caitanya-caritamrta

The chapter's benedictory verse naming Buddhist, Jain and Mayavada philosophy as the schools He met in the south.

যাবৎ পড়োঁ, তাবৎ পাঙ তাঁর দরশন ।
এই লাগি’ গীতা-পাঠ না ছাড়ে মোর মন ॥ ১০১ ॥

yāvat paḍoṅ, tāvat pāṅa tāṅra daraśana
ei lāgi’ gītā-pāṭha nā chāḍe mora mana

Word for word

yāvat — as long as; paḍoṅ — I read; tāvat — so long; pāṅa — I get; tāṅra — His; daraśana — audience; ei lāgi’ — for this reason; gītā-pāṭha — reading the Bhagavad-gītā; nā chāḍe — does not quit; mora mana — my mind.

“As long as I read the Bhagavad-gītā, I simply see the Lord’s beautiful features. It is for this reason that I am reading the Bhagavad-gītā, and my mind cannot be distracted from this.”

CC Madhya 9.101 Sri Caitanya-caritamrta

The illiterate brahmana of Srirangam who saw Krishna on the chariot while reading the Bhagavad-gita he could not pronounce.

সিদ্ধান্ত-শাস্ত্র নাহি ‘ব্রহ্মসংহিতা’র সম ।
গোবিন্দমহিমা জ্ঞানের পরম কারণ ॥ ২৩৯ ॥
অল্পাক্ষরে কহে সিদ্ধান্ত অপার ।
সকল-বৈষ্ণবশাস্ত্র-মধ্যে অতি সার ॥ ২৪০ ॥

siddhānta-śāstra nāhi ‘brahma-saṁhitā’ra sama
govinda-mahimā jñānera parama kāraṇa
alpākṣare kahe siddhānta apāra
sakala-vaiṣṇava-śāstra-madhye ati sāra

Word for word

siddhānta-śāstra — conclusive scripture; nāhi — there is not; brahma-saṁhitāra sama — like the scripture Brahma-saṁhitā; govinda-mahimā — of the glories of Lord Govinda; jñānera — of knowledge; parama — final; kāraṇa — cause; alpa-akṣare — briefly; kahe — expresses; siddhānta — conclusion; apāra — unlimited; sakala — all; vaiṣṇava-śāstra — devotional scriptures; madhye — among; ati sāra — very essential.

There is no scripture equal to the Brahma-saṁhitā as far as the final spiritual conclusion is concerned. Indeed, that scripture is the supreme revelation of the glories of Lord Govinda, for it reveals the topmost knowledge about Him. Since all conclusions are briefly presented in the Brahma-saṁhitā, it is essential among all the Vaiṣṇava literatures.

CC Madhya 9.239-240 Sri Caitanya-caritamrta

Krishnadasa Kaviraja's estimate of the Brahma-samhita, the manuscript recovered at the Adi-keshava temple.

কর্ণামৃত’-সম বস্তু নাহি ত্রিভুবনে ।
যাহা হৈতে হয় কৃষ্ণে শুদ্ধপ্রেমজ্ঞানে ॥ ৩০৭ ॥

‘karṇāmṛta’-sama vastu nāhi tribhuvane
yāhā haite haya kṛṣṇe śuddha-prema-jñāne

Word for word

karṇāmṛta — the Kṛṣṇa-karṇāmṛta; sama — like; vastu nāhi — there is nothing; tri-bhuvane — in the three worlds; yāhā haite — from which; haya — there is; kṛṣṇe — unto Lord Kṛṣṇa; śuddha-prema-jñāne — knowledge of pure devotional service.

There is no comparison to the Kṛṣṇa-karṇāmṛta within the three worlds. By studying this book, one is elevated to the knowledge of pure devotional service to Kṛṣṇa.

CC Madhya 9.307-309 Sri Caitanya-caritamrta

The Krishna-karnamrita of Bilvamangala Thakura, and the description of the two recovered books as the jewels He carried home.

শ্রীগোপাল ভট্ট এক শাখা সর্বোত্তম ।
রূপ–সনাতন–সঙ্গে যাঁর প্রেম–আলাপন ॥ ১০৫ ॥

śrī-gopāla bhaṭṭa eka śākhā sarvottama
rūpa-sanātana-saṅge yāṅra prema-ālāpana

Word for word

śrī-gopāla bhaṭṭa — Śrī Gopāla Bhaṭṭa; eka — one; śākhā — branch; sarva-uttama — very exalted; rūpa — Rūpa; sanātana — Sanātana; saṅge — company; yāṅra — whose; prema — love of Godhead; ālāpana — discussion.

Śrī Gopāla Bhaṭṭa Gosvāmī, the forty-seventh branch, was one of the great and exalted branches of the tree. He always engaged in discourses about love of Godhead in the company of Rūpa Gosvāmī and Sanātana Gosvāmī.

CC Ādi 10.105 (purport) Sri Caitanya-caritamrta

Establishes that Gopala Bhatta Goswami was the son of Venkata Bhatta of Srirangam and served the Lord during the four months of Chaturmasya in 1511.